In the moment - Capara Fall/Winter 2015-2016 collection28 May 2015 | + Boyana Dimova
Contemplating the works of the flemish renaissance in a museum, wandering into a gallery exhibition modern photography, a foray into abstract art on a walk through town: time travelling between the centuries, meandering between the genres and schools of art, whilst still capturing the zeitgeist. ’In the moment’ is the idea of self-discovery behind capara’s Fall/Winter 2015/16 collection. Inspired by the depth and complexity of the landscape painting by flemish renaissance artist Pieter Breugel the elder, on the one hand, and the modernity of the works of Katharina Grosse and the photographs by Viviane Sassen on the other, the collection really strikes a chord with the here and now.
The colour palettes are inspired by the faded yet striking colours in the photography of Viviane Sassen. Accompanying the cooler winter colours are always stronger contrasts: black, storm grey and barolo red, along with bright white, cream, nude, red,pink and yellow – imbued with a sense of melancholy and zeitgeist. Nature’s hues inspired by Breugel’s works contrast with the extrovert colour explosions found in Katharina Grosse’s art. All the colours in the collection were created especially.
Capara’s signature items are the shoulder pieces: outerwear with new volumes and shapes, which take classic items like trench coats, coats and blazers and abstract them, whilst still retaining their key characteristics – elegance meets avant-garde. In this way, the sleeves and shoulder sections remain what they have always been: the core elements of the collection and the hallmark of Capara. This is also expressed in the choice of materials, the shapes as well as the prints – always with a subtle emphasis on the sleeves. At Capara the focus is on the sleeves and shoulders. Once again this season the designers are taking their core pieces – the classic bomber jackets, coats, trench coats – and transporting them into new dimensions. A lighthearted take on raglan sleeves and brand new volumes is carried to the extremes.
The silhouette references the widest range of schools of art epochs and stylistic directions: the feminine silhouette is broken up with an urban underground approach – oversized wool items are paired with delicate materials and exposed skin. Extreme layering is presented in the form of coats worn over coats bomber jackets over coats and jackets over jackets.
The prints and use of matelasse materials were inspired by the drawings of the flemish renaissance artist Pieter Breugel the elder. A wing visual has been chosen and used as a print with new colour combinations. In geometric colour and surface layering a wide variety of wing motifs are draped. The screen print is not only used on tops but also outerwear – in order to create an ’artisanal look’ – a reference to Martin Margiela and the Antwerp heritage – a legacy that Capara continues to honour in its collections. The large-format colour effects by the artist Katharina Grosse are rendered on the screen–printed textiles as if on a painted canvas.
When it comes to the choice of materials, elegant textiles meet high-quality fabrics with smooth and structured surfaces o organic wool melanges. Velour effects and 3-d structures interact with shimmering washed silk and flat cotton mixes. A new interpretation of the classic check is rendered in jacquard weaves – a typical wintery pattern that has been transformed with a modern take in two colours. The pattern attains a completely new lightness due to the irregular delicate line structure that somewhat offsets the dominant geometry. Several leather pieces in natural tones expose their lively structure in the lining.
Details like the copper-coloured asymmetrical zippers and patch pockets – some of which feature printed motifs – bring tension into the symmetry of the collection items. Lacing on dresses and skirts is reminiscent of medieval detailing – but appears modern and edgy within this new context. The love of detailing in the Capara collections is even continued inside the pieces: in the outerwear, prints and colour embellishments are to be found in the lining – some of the leather items are even dyed on the inside.
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